We’re continuing with our series of posts by the Rosenbach’s amazing interns. This one follows the French theme of the past few weeks.
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name is Kat and I am a Collections Intern for the summer here at the
Rosenbach. I have a B.A. in History from Temple University
and a keen interest in historic clothes and accessories. This year I have been swept up in the recent commemorations
of the 200 year anniversary of the War of 1812. With such background and
interests, it is no wonder that this Empire Era hair comb in the Rosenbach
collection caught my attention.
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| Tiara. c. 1800-1825. Rosenbach Museum & Library. 1954.1877a. |
The tiara, or hair comb, is gilded metal set with amethysts
and faux pearls surrounded by carvings of leaves and geometric shapes. Such a comb would be part of a set of jewels,
called a parure, consisting of a necklace, earrings, bracelets and
brooches. Ladies would set this comb in
front of a high chignon or set of curls, as seen in this painting of Bonaparte
sisters by Jacques-Louis David.
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| Jacques-Louis David, Portrait of the sisters Zenaide and Charlotte Bonaparte. 1821. In the collection of the Getty Museum. Photograph by Ed Bierman. Made available under Attribution 2.0 license. |
connection to the famous family!
Paperwork accompanying the comb at the time of sale claims it was the
property of a great grand niece of Napoleon Bonaparte. Though this cannot be substantiated, there is
no doubt that this style of the comb would have fit right in with the fashions
prevalent during Napoleon’s reign.
order of the day. Neo-classical styles
featuring Roman and Egyptian influences were made popular by Napoleon’s beloved
wife, Josephine. She is seen here
wearing a classical styled tiara and gown:
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| George Cruikshank, Napoleon, When First Consul & Madam Josephine (His First Wife) in the garden at Malmaison. 1824. Rosenbach Museum & Library. 1954.1880.1673 |
The hair comb from the collection has a simple crescent
shape similar to those seen on Greek and Roman statues of goddesses from
antiquity. Influences of classical
design can also be seen in the leaf pattern set between rows of amethysts. The leaf motif, reminiscent of the laurel
wreath crowns worn by Roman emperors of the Classical age, was a popular ornamental
design during the Empire period. Napoleon
himself was often depicted wearing this popular symbol. In the following engraving, he wears a
military hat with gold embroidered leaf swags.
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| David Edwin, Napoleon Buonaparte. Philadelphia: C. and A. Conrad & Co, 1809-1810. Rosenbach Museum & Library. 1954.1178 |
to connect himself with powerful ancient rulers to strengthen his political
image.
Catherine of Britain has brought tiaras back into the spotlight. It is
interesting to note that many of today’s tiaras are made with the same leaf
designs made popular thousands of years ago, connecting countless generations
through art and design.
Kathryn Stelzer has a B.A. in History from Temple University and previously interned at the Cairnwood Estate in Bryn Athyn.
What a gorgeous Tiara! And a beautifully written article.